Monday, April 27, 2009

How To Make A Chawan



Not a whole lot to say in this post but this is step one in how I make my chawans (teabowls). I start by wedging up about 3-1/2 pounds of clay. Once that is completed I pound and shape it into a nice round disk approximately 5 inches wide by 3-3/4 inches tall. I also gently roll the clay disk on its' side, on my canvas covered board, to get a nice round form for the exterior of the teabowl. I also have another piece of clay ready to carve covered up in the plastic once I complete this bowl.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Tools Of The Trade



This bowl is really coming along and I'm almost done. In this photo you can see what types of tools I use to carve my chawans. I need to thin-out the walls a little bit and then carve the footring, called the "kodai" in Japanese. Even though the kodai is hidden from view until after the tea has been drunk, it is a key element of the chawan and can reveal many things about the maker, such as skill and mindset. Since it is the only part of the bowl that is not glazed it also reveals the "tsuchi-aji" (clay flavor). You can see the tru color and texture of the clay by examining the kodai,

Friday, April 24, 2009

Hand Carved Chawan


I started carving this chawan last weekend and just finished up yesterday. I probably have about eight hours into the bowl but I think it is the best tea bowl I have made to date. I definately have a lot of heart and soul into this chawan and can't wait to fire it. There is just something about it. First of all it looks good and when you hold it in your hands it feels good. I'll end up raku-firing this but I don't know what type of glaze I am going to use. And speaking of firing, I'm going to have to wood-fire this. Something about this bowl just says "wood-fire me."

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Classical Birdfeeder

This birdfeeder has been sitting on our deck for the past six years and over that time I never gave it much thought. It was almost like it wasn't even there. Quite often it didn't even have bird seed in it (sorry birds). Yesterday I happened to take a closer look at it and thought to myself "Hey Man! This is really a cool birdfeeder." Anyway, on to the story behind the feeder.

When I got back into clay, after a 10-year hiatus, this is the first thing I made. I still had all my clay tools but had no clay, glazes or underglazes, so I got on the phone and ordered some materials to get me back into clay. Kind of odd because although I ordered the stuff to start making things, I had no way of firing them. I didn't even think of that. I must have been caught up in the excitment of getting muddy again.

Ok. The stuff was ordered and it would take a week to deliver. In that time I was constantly wondering what I was going to make. Not only did I not have a kiln, I also did not have a potter's wheel so I was going to be limited to handbuilding whatever project I decided to tackle. I sat on the deck trying to sketch out some ideas in my sketch book and realized we didn't have a birdfeeder to feed any of the birds chirpping about the deck rails--Tah-Dah! A Birdfeeder was going to be the first project.

Still at the sketchbook, nothing seemed to be working for me and eventually I ended up looking at drawings of a pitched roof with four supporting columns. Thank goodness the clay gods stepped in and I had an epiphany--The Parthenon of Ancient Greece! Unfortuantely, after looking at a photo of the temple, it seemed to be too big of an unertaking for me so I started looking at other photos of Greek Temples. Turned out that all of the temples seemed to intimdate the hell out of me so I looked at my last drawing, the one with four columns and a pitched roof, and said I'll just make this simple but "Greek-like." And, it worked.

Once I had created my temple I still had no way to fire it. A couple months later I ended up enrolling in a pottery class at the college, fired the feeder and a bunch of other projects, and the rest is ancient history.

The birdfeeder is made out of a lowfire talc clay body and I used a red iron wash for the roof and and used a more diluted soultion for the base. I then brushed three coats of lowfire clear glaze on everything but the top part of the roof. It has been outside in the elements ever since and gets better looking with time. If you click on the photo to enlarge it you can see that lichen has started to grow on the feeder making it look even more "ancient." Well, thats the story. Hope I didn't bore you, but I really thought the whole thing was worth documenting.
Cheers!

Chawan Is Looking Good

This bowl is really coming along and I'm almost done. In this photo you can see what types of tools I used to carve this chawan. I need to thin-out the walls a little but and then carve the footring, called the "kodai" in Japanese. Even though the kodai is hidden from view until after the tea has been drunk, it is a key element of the chawan and can reveal many things about the maker, such as skill and mindset. Since it is the only part of the bowl not glazed it also reveals the "tsuchi-aji" (clay flavor). You can see the true color and texture of the clay by examining the kodai.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Making a Chawan, Step One


Not a whole lot to say in this post. I am working backwards as far as posting so my blog post go in order from step one to completion.

I started my chawan by wedging approximately 3-1/2 pounds of clay. Once the wedging was completed I pounded it and shaped the ball of clay into a small form that was approximately 5 inches wide by 3-3/4 inches tall. I also rolled the ball of clay over my canvas covered board to get a nice round form for the outside of the bowl. The piece of plastic to the right of the ball of clay is another wedged and rolled out piece of clay for my next teabowl.
I wanted to start carving right away so I left the first wedged round of clay out on my board overnight. This made the clay hard enough but yet still moist enough to carve with my tools.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Back In The Studio Again

The weather is starting to feel and resemble Spring again and therefore I've been spending more time at the studio. I've even started a few new projects and am finishing up a few older ones. I'm almost done with my "American" version of an ancient South American stirrup jar.

The clay body is lowfire terra cotta and It is really sucking-up my underglazes. This has proven to be a pain-in-the-butt to paint. I've forgotten how many coats of white underglaze it has taken me to cover up the red clay. All I can say is, I've got a lot of time into this piece.

Today I'll paint three coats of clear gloss over the piece and hopefully fire it this coming weekend. Will post a photo of the finished work when I get it done.

This past weekend I also started hand carving a few Chawans, (teabowls), which I think are my best to date. If all goes well, and weather permitting, I'll raku-fire these this coming weekend. I'm hoping to have some firing company as well. More info to follow.

Wednesday, April 08, 2009

Raku Kiln Number 3

As most of my friends know, last years' flood took out my raku kiln. Here is a description of how I built raku kiln number 3.

I was too poor and cheap to buy a new galvanized garbage can so I used one that had been previously used as a post-firing reduction chamber.

I had just recently purchased 50 square feet of kaowool fiber from E-Bay. I thought it was a steal at 120 dollars, that included shipping. It was 1-inch thick, 8 lb. density, and 24-inches by 25-feet long.

I also found a box of homemade ceramic buttons that I made over a year ago and a package of high temp wire. Its amazing what you can find when you clean up the studio,
(It was Spring Cleaning Time). I'll get to the buttons a bit later. Ok, on to the construction description.

As you can see in this photo I traced a 5-inch circle on the bottom of this can. Then I drilled a starter hole on the line and used some tin shears to cut out the hole for the burner port. Once the hole was cut out I used a metal file and filed off any of the sharp burrs left behind from the shears. I also did the same proceedure on the garbage can lid for the exit flue.

Next I rolled out some of the fiber and traced the bottom of the garbage can on the fiber with a black magic marker. Then I cut the circle out with razor-blade type box cutter. I cut two of these circles and placed both of them, one on top of the other, into the bottom of the can. The reason for two is because with two inches of fiber on the bottom, only one piece of fiber, 24-inches tall, is needed to line the kiln. It is a perfect fit.

Ceramic Buttons


For my last two fiber kilns I used high temp wire and pieces of 1-inch by 1-inch fiber board to secure the fiber to the garbage can. About a year ago I read an article about somebody using ceramic buttons. I tried google searching for ceramic buttons and had no luck finding any. I probably couldn't afford them anyway so I made my own.

These buttons were made from a regular raku clay body. I rolled out a slab of clay about 1/4-inch thick and used a 2-inch cookie cutter to cut out the forms. I then rolled out a coil of clay, cut little pieces off and slip and scored them to the 2-inch rounds. Once they were dried I used a small drill bit to drill a hole through them so I could thread the high temp wire through the buttons.

The article I read regarding these buttons warned that sometimes these buttons would occasionally break due to the stressful nature of rapid raku firing so I made several extras just in case.

Raku Kiln Chamber


This kiln is not constructed with two layers of 1-inch fiber. The Garbage can is not a straight cylander, it tapers in towards the bottom. So rather than trying to taper the fiber to fit, I used a strip of fiber 1-inch by 3-inches and glued it to the trash can with sodium silicate. This made it really easy to use one piece of fiber 24-inches tall for the interior without haveing to make any "pain inf the butt" cuts.

I used three ceramic buttons with high temp wire to secure the fiber to the garbage can. I didn't use any at the bottom of the can but can add them later if needed.

Two holes for each button, slightly larger than the high temp wire, were drilled into the can and the buttons and wire were feed from the inside out. This proved to be a little challenging, patience helps. Once the wires were fed through the holes, the ends were twisted from the outside with pliers to tighten and secure the buttons.

Raku Kiln Lid



I'm not really sure if this lid is really "finished." I painted a thick layer of sodium silicate on the garbage can lid and then placed the round piece of fiber into the lid and used a rubber kitchen spatula to kind of tuck in the edges.

Once I fire-up the kiln for the first time I'll find out whether or not I need to add any additional buttons to hold the fiber in place. If any additional buttons are needed, I'll add them. Each button takes just a few minutes to install.

Finished Raku Kiln



The finished product.

I really like this style of a kiln mainly because of its portability. It is very light weight and remarkably durable. I once even transported this kiln, the small propane tank and burner, and all the rest of the materials to a friends' house for a raku party in the back of a 4-door Oldsmobile.

This is a large garbage can but a smaller can would probably be more than adaquate for most people or for beginning raku fanatics.

Sorry Natalie



My little clay partner Natalie has been to the studio. Sorry I missed you Nat. She is just dying to get her hands muddy again. It has been a long unproductive winter. I have been to the studio, but usually stop in after work, and that is before school lets out. Once again, sorry Nat. Hope to see you this weekend.

Jeff.

Sunday, April 05, 2009

A New Raku Kiln

I know. I've been bad, naughty, and have not posted anything for two months. I have been putting a lot of time and effort into the art blog that I write for work called Coulee Region Art. This is a pretty cool blog site, although it is written for people in this immediate area. Each week I spotlight a local artist with a brief biography, post a photo of their work in a permanent slide show and also post a permanent link to their website if they have one. I also post things on upcoming events such as workshops and exhibits. I even put a slideshow of my first Anagama wood firing experience with potter and educator Tony Ferguson. Before I drift too far from intended topic, A New Raku Kiln.........

Yes, I'm building a new propane fired raku kiln. Winter has been dragging on too long and I haven't spent any time inthe studio making anything. The weather was about 50 degrees F yesterday. A good day to work. Anyway, last Spring our second 100 year flood in two years took out both my raku kilns. I actually found one tangled up in some tree branches but "Alas, poor kiln was dead." Too much mud and water ruined the fiber-lined interior. This kiln was the one that was fired from the bottom and sat atop a modified turkey cooker. I never did see any advantage using the "updraft" kiln and it was just another piece of equipment to haul around so I went with the standard garbage can kiln with the hole in the side and a hole in the top.

To save money I bought 50 square feet of 1 inch 8lb. density kaowool fiber for just over 100 dollars on e-bay. I had a pretty new 31-gallon metal garbage can in the basement and I am going to use a lid from the very first kiln that I made. I didn't get too far yesterday. I had to clean the inside of the can with a wire brush, cut the side hole, and layered two pieces of the fibre into the bottom of the can. I used two layers on the bottom because the can is 26 inches tall and by using two pieces I can use just one piece of 24-inch wide fiber to finish the interior of the kiln.

Well anyway, thats as far as I got yesterday. Planned on finishing today but we're expecting 6-7 inches more snow today and don't know if I want to drive to the studio. We'll see. Stay tuned to the blog as I will be posting photos of the new kiln building project.

Wednesday, February 04, 2009

Slide Shows

Maybe I haven't been posting as often on this site is because I am also blogging at work (my paying job) for a site called Coulee Region Art. I have posted two slide shows that I'd like people to check out. One is a mini slide show of some of my work and another is a slide show of some of the local area artists that I have been spotlighting in the blog.

Also, here are a couple more Raku Glaze Recipes.

Shroom Brown Raku Glaze Recipe.
Frit 85
Ball Clay 7.5
Calcium Carbonate 7.5
Add: Copper Oxide 1.50%
Add: Tin Oxide 5%

Tomato Red Raku Glaze Recipe.
Borax 50
Gerstley Borate 50
Copper Carbonate 20
Red Iron Oxide 5

Tuesday, February 03, 2009

Raku Glaze Recipes

I know I haven't posted anything lately. Actually I haven't been doing anything in the studio to talk about. Weather has been a burden on everything and my truck has been giving me headaches for the past two weeks. Worked on that all weekend and it is still running like crap. Might be time for some professionals pretty quick. Anyway, since I have nothing else to post I thought I'd continue with my Raku Glaze Recipes, but before I do I'd like to say thanks to Linda Star, Anna, and Ang. It is always nice to read comments that they post on my blog site. I appreciate it. Thanks.

Black Raku Glaze Recipe.
Gerstley Borate 80
Cornwall Stone 20
Copper Oxide 4
Cobalt Oxide 3
Iron Oxide 4

Black Magic Raku Glaze.
Colemanite 80
Custer feldspar 20
Copper Carbonate 10
Red Iron Oxide 5
Cobalt Carb. 1

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Incense Bottle No. 2



Another barrel fired incense bottle. This one was burnished with crisco cooking oil and a metal spoon. Originally this bottle was about 18 inches tall. The neck was very thin and tall but I broke the rim when I was burnishing it. I decided not to to throw it out, cut the neck down and fired it anyway. When someone asked me if I had another incense bottle I said "yes I do. What do you think about this one?" Alas, the incense bottle is gone.

Thank goodness the weather is getting better. This week the temperatures could reach 20 degrees, and the sun was out yesterday. Hoping to get into the studio this weekend and do some work.

I've been posting some slide shows on the blog that I write for work, Coulee Region Art. Last Friday I started a weekly post called "Spotlight." It has become a big hit, literally, receiving lots of hits. Anyway, each Friday I am spolighting local area artists, briefly introducing them with a mini bio and then posting a photo of their work into a permanent slide show. I have also created permanent links to the artists individual web sites. There seems to be lots of interest as I am receiving referals and requests on a daily basis via email. The whole thing is actually very exciting as I am getting to meet several artists and getting to look at a lot of art. Anyway, check out "Spotlight."

Friday, January 16, 2009

Raku Tea Bowl


Nothing fancy about this teabowl. Thrown on the wheel, faceted, and hand-carved foot, but it sure feels good in the hands. I think the simplicity and plainess of this bowl makes it extra special. The glaze is Soldner's Clear Crackle-- 80% Gerstley Borate and 20% Nepheline Syenite. This one is also going to my mother.
I'm finally starting to get responses from local area artists in regards to my other blog site "Coulee Region Art." Each week I would like to highlight about ten local artists and create a permanent link to their web site. In addition to that I have created a slide show in which each artist is represented. The slide show links have been a huge success and have generated a lot of page views. The slide show of the anagama firing genereated almost 1,000 page views in just 4 days.
Not much else going on. I haven't made anything lately and have only been to the studio a couple times in the past two weeks. The MidWest has been hammered with lots of snow and seriously cold weather, minus 20 degrees the past two days. Warmer temps are on the way so hopefully I'll be able to get some work done in the studio.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

3110 Turqoise Raku Glaze



This is one of my favorite raku glazes and it can produce a lot of different effects, most of which you can see in this tea bowl. The turquoise is a nice crackle glaze. Before glazing I splashed some hot wax on the tea bowl, as seen in the very front. The glaze did not stick to the wax and after the firing, in the post firing reduction phase, this area turned black. If you click on this photo the enlarged area will show the beautiful oxblood red around the edges between the black and turquoise. The heavy reduction in the kiln during firing also produced a rough bronze on the interior of the bowl.
I don't think I have posted a photo of this tea bowl but thought I'd better since this is being shipped out west to my best patron--my mother. The glaze I have posted before but here it is again.
3110 Turquoise Raku Glaze
Frit 3110 100
Tin Oxide 3
Copper Carbonate 3
Bentonite 3
Also, don't forget to check out my other blog "Coulee Region Art."

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Barrel Fired Incense Bottle



I barrel fired this bottle form about a year ago and it has been sitting on a back shelf in my studio since then because I thought a little tiny hole had blown out near the base. I remembered it only because a woman at work asked me if I could make an incense bottle for a Christmas gift. I didn't know what an incense bottle was. I had never heard of one before. She emailed me some photos and then I remembered this long forgotten bottle. I told her I had one already made, showed her this photo from a previous blog post and she said it was "perfect." Well, it turned out that the hole I thought was there wasn't there at all. It was just a minor pop-out, perhaps from some loose plaster that was in the studio. Anyway I had to buy a 1/4 inch masonry drill bit and drilled a hole approximately 1-1/2 inches from the bottom. The drill bit cut right through it--No Problemo.

Anyway, if you're going to burn incense this is probably the safest and cleanest way to do it. Wedge the stick part of the incense into a split key ring. A split key ring is one of those key rings that you have to pry apart, place the key into it and then you keep turning it until it is locked onto the ring. The incense is then lit and placed burning end first into the bottle. The split key ring keeps it from falling into the bottle. As the incense burns, the ash falls inside the bottle. The hole that I drilled into the bottle allows oxygen in as the scent comes out the top. Although I don't burn incense, I think it is a pretty good idea.

This morning I also added a new blog to my blog list, River North Pottery. And, don't forget to check out my slide show on my other blog "Coulee Region Art."